How light of a fly rod should you use if you want to feel fish?
What is the perfect dry fly rod?
Will a broken rod make casting harder? (Yes, I’ve heard this a number of times.)
I love questions. And I enjoy thinking through and talking about fly rod questions. In my years writing Casting Across, teaching casting, guiding, and selling rods, questions about selecting rods have made many of the inquiries I’ve answered. They constitute the bulk of gear-related questions I’ve fielded. I’m continuing this series of articles by looking at five more fly rod questions I’ve handled quite a few times in the past 25 years.
You can check out the list of previous questions/answers, and check out the latest batch below:
Should I use a 1- or 2-weight if I really want to feel the fish?
There is always a trade-off when it comes to dropping down to the ultralight rod weights. Tiny dries within 30 feet are all fine and good with that 1-weight. But if there is a deep hole requiring a weighted (or even unweighted) streamer? You’ll probably be able to do it, but it won’t be as effortless as it would be with a 4-weight. And when that little brookie does take your fly, you’d be hard pressed to tell the difference in the fight between the 1 and the lithe 4. Those light rods are a lot of fun to fight small fish on, but it is always a tradeoff with what and how they can present flies.
Are some rods better for dry flies?
While the entire panorama of dry fly fishing presents a scene that largely focuses on skill, there is something to be said for using the best tools for the job. A good fly rod will help you lay out the requisite line in a delicate manner. So, a light rod that you have to cast hard is less ideal than a heavier rod that makes a finesse cast easier. The same weight/flex will allow for easier mends, too. Since narrower tippet is usually called for, a sensitive tip that can provide some shock absorption is a good idea. While there is not one perfect dry fly rod, these facets combined for where you’re fishing will lead you to the best tool.
I broke the tip off my fly rod… what should I do?
If it is the very tip (less than 2″ or so), you have a few options. The first is to buy a replacement tip-top and install it via the instructions. It will impact the way your rod casts, but only slightly. You can also send it in for repairs if it is under warranty or if you’d rather have the pros deal with it. If the break is past the next guide or right up against it, that is probably a situation where a more skilled repair is the right choice. You can always fish with a broken rod, but it is going to be less than ideal.
Why would anyone spend $800 on a fly rod?
You could rephrase this question with any number, higher or lower, than $800. And the answer? Mostly because they can. Right behind that? There are build and component advantages in more expensive fly rods. Even though two rods might have $500 between them and look exactly the same, there is a good chance the graphite, the epoxy, the guides, etc. are different. Maybe not, but probably. Thankfully, many good rods can be found for under $1,000/$800/$600/etc.
What will happen if I use my freshwater fly rod in the saltwater?
Hopefully, you’ll catch fish! Yes: some rods have beefier components that may be designed to withstand the harsh effects of salt water. But even those rods should be rinsed and dried after use in the ocean. If you are giving stripers or reds a shot, and only have a bass or musky rod, don’t let the aesthetics stop you (or force you into spending money). And a 6-weight, which not all saltwater rod series include in their lineup, might be the ticket in some applications. Just give it a good fresh water rinse and dry when you’re done.
Want more Fly Rod FAQs? Head to the full page here.