For nearly a decade, there is one topic that I hear questions about more than any other. Fly rods.
After fly fishing for a long while, selling rods, and teaching casting, I do think I know a few things about rods. Enough to satisfy all but the most technical engineering questions, at least. It is fun to give my two cents on what might fit someone’s needs. I like to help people think through the variables of making a purchase: use, budget, preference, etc.
And while the last thing that I’d want to do is circumvent this kind of interaction, I do think it might be helpful to catalog some of the most frequently asked questions.
5 or 6 weight?
First, you can’t go wrong. Both will catch fish and both will make you happy. With length and action variables aside, my suggestion is go with the 6 unless you primarily plan on fishing smaller trout creeks. If you ever anticipate fishing even a medium sized river, the 6 will do everything the 5 can do only better.
Is it okay to buy from a smaller, newer company?
Of course. I have great rods that came from small companies (that are now big companies). I have so-so rods that came from big companies. The risk with a new company is that they may not be around to take care of you in five years. The upside is that you might get a great deal, get excellent personal service, and be fishing with a rod that is using the exact same blank as some of the more expensive options.
Should I buy online or from a shop?
There is absolutely nothing wrong with buying online. You are buying sight (and cast) unseen, however. If you do go to test cast rod X at a fly shop, I’d buy it at that fly shop. Not only is that ethical, but any shop worth it’s salt will appreciate the purchase and give you the added-value customer service that such a transaction warrants.
I fish for trout and want to fish for bass, too. What weight rod should I buy?
A 6-weight with a fast action is the best solution for straddling this line. Anything lighter and softer will struggle with wind-resistant poppers and weighted streamers. Anything heavier and stiffer will make delicate dry and nymph presentations cumbersome. There will be some tradeoffs in only having one, all-around rod. But a quality 6 should cover your medium to heavy trout and light bass fishing.
I want to try saltwater fly fishing. What rod should I get?
There are so many kinds of saltwater fly fishing! Assuming you’ll be casting from the beach or the flats, a 9-weight will be a good versatile option. It very well may be overkill for some species, but the casting power it provides will help limit your false casts and will punch heavy flies into the wind well. Your second saltwater rod purchase, if you choose to stick with it, will give you the opportunity to hone in on exactly what you need.
Does fly rod color matter to the fish?
Absolutely not. Think about this: What does anything as thin as a fly rod look like when seen above the surface through refracted water? A black line. Fish will get freaked out by motion long before they see the white label above the cork or the neon yellow blank of your rod.
How much do I need to spend for a good rod?
Not a lot. While there are some spectacular rods for close to $1,000, you don’t need all of that to cast well and catch fish. These days, there are plenty of great rods for around $200. There are also perfectly serviceable rod, reel, and line combos for under $200. Even the most inexpensive rod from a reputable company will suit your purposes.
Isn’t 7 feet or shorter too short for a good fly cast?
If you have a basic grasp of casting mechanics, you will be able to cast well with a short fly rod. Short rods are still designed to cast fly line. Many small stream anglers learn to cast (and only cast) with short rods, too. In fact, distance records have been set with relatively short rods.
Can I use a nymphing rod for other kinds of fly fishing?
You can… but it won’t be very fun. “Euro rods” are really only meant for flipping over nymph rigs and following the drift. While you can cast a dry fly or a streamer with this gear, it isn’t ideal. The taper and weight of the rods themselves aren’t engineered for traditional casts with normal fly line. Consequently, it will be cumbersome enough to warrant using a second rod.
Does the warranty matter?
Warranties are great. Controversial, but great. They matter inasmuch as they offer some sort of safety net. The controversy comes in with the asterisks detailing terms, costs, etc. Not to mention the real possibility of price inflation to compensate for the program. All that to say, it is worth double checking how a company’s warranty program works before getting too excited about a “rod for life.”
Have a fly rod question? Let me know in the box below!