It is easy to judge your skill as a fly tyer by how a fly looks. While pretty flies are indeed fun to look at, the real goal ought to be flies that fish well. (It can’t be ignored that often the flies that fish well do look good.)
So what are you doing to improve how your flies fish? Are you cutting down the wind resistance of your streamers? Are you making sure your nymphs sink at a uniform rate from fly to fly? Are your dry flies staying dry without much fuss?
This last question is an important one. Pretty dry flies can be a real difficult task for new fly tyers. Moreover, the ideal dry fly aesthetic is tightly linked with precision proportions that lead to the proper presentation. Basically, they need to look good to fish good. While improving your skills is important, there are some easier things you can do to help keep your flies up while you learn.
Here are three things you can do at the vise to keep your dry flies floating:
Be a more efficient tyer (no offense):
There are few circumstances when more materials is desirable. Usually, the best flies are tied with minimal quantities of fur, feathers, and thread. Not only is a thickly dubbed body on a dry fly unrealistic, it also absorbs more water. A big clump of elk hair might produce a splendid and full caddis, but the thickest portions of every one of those fibers has been compressed into a bulky base.
Learning to be efficient with your wraps and your dubbing does a lot. Your materials go further. You can tie faster. Your flies will often be more realistic, and they will always shed water more quickly.
Use a little foam (tradition, shmadition):
Foam floats. Really well. Without the empirical data in front of me, I’ll confidently say that it floats better than any natural material out there. Everyone fishes foam beetles and hoppers. Why not fish foam mayflies, caddisflies, and stoneflies?
Of course these patterns exist. There are recipes out there and commercial tyers that sell these flies. But you don’t need to be a fly tying prodigy to add a piece of foam as an extended body or even a bit behind the wing. Foam isn’t the most aerodynamic material, and it will float differently than natural materials. Consequently, use it sparingly and test how your flies ride before you tie a dozen.
Pre-apply your floatant (very, very pre):
Paragraphs could be written on how to properly apply floatant. It isn’t as easy as “put some on your dry fly.” Regardless, it is possible to apply a floating agent right after you tie. Whip finish, add head cement, let it dry, and then come back to your set of flies for a quick dip and another dry. Personally, I think that pre-treated flies float higher and longer. There are a number of solutions on the market.
I’ve enjoyed using Loon Outdoors’ Fly Dip. Colors don’t bleed. Once it dries, materials don’t look matted down. Flies don’t hit the water and leave an oil slick. And again, the flies seem to float higher and longer.
I am not at all arguing for shortcuts in lieu of becoming a better fly tyer. But a few little tricks can help you accomplish your main goal (fish) while you hone the perfect technique.
Do you have any tips for keeping your dry flies dry before they even hit the water? Let me know in the comments below!