Fly Rod FAQs

For decades, there is one topic that I hear questions about more than any other. Fly rods.

After fly fishing for a long while, selling rods, and teaching casting, I do think I know a few things about rods. Enough to satisfy all but the most technical engineering questions, at least. It is fun to give my two cents on what might fit someone’s needs. I like to help people think through the variables of making a purchase: use, budget, preference, etc.

And while the last thing that I’d want to do is circumvent this kind of interaction, I do think it might be helpful to catalog some of the most frequently asked questions.


5 or 6 weight?

First, you can’t go wrong. Both will catch fish and both will make you happy. With length and action variables aside, my suggestion is go with the 6 unless you primarily plan on fishing smaller trout creeks. If you ever anticipate fishing even a medium sized river, the 6 will do everything the 5 can do only better.

Is it okay to buy from a smaller, newer company?

Of course. I have great rods that came from small companies (that are now big companies). I have so-so rods that came from big companies. The risk with a new company is that they may not be around to take care of you in five years. The upside is that you might get a great deal, get excellent personal service, and be fishing with a rod that is using the exact same blank as some of the more expensive options.

Should I buy online or from a shop?

There is absolutely nothing wrong with buying online. You are buying sight (and cast) unseen, however. If you do go to test cast rod X at a fly shop, I’d buy it at that fly shop.  Not only is that  ethical, but any shop worth it’s salt will appreciate the purchase and give you the added-value customer service that such a transaction warrants.

I fish for trout and want to fish for bass, too. What weight rod should I buy?

A 6-weight with a fast action is the best solution for straddling this line. Anything lighter and softer will struggle with wind-resistant poppers and weighted streamers. Anything heavier and stiffer will make delicate dry and nymph presentations cumbersome. There will be some tradeoffs in only having one, all-around rod. But a quality 6 should cover your medium to heavy trout and light bass fishing.

I want to try saltwater fly fishing. What rod should I get?

There are so many kinds of saltwater fly fishing! Assuming you’ll be casting from the beach or the flats, a 9-weight will be a good versatile option. It very well may be overkill for some species, but the casting power it provides will help limit your false casts and will punch heavy flies into the wind well.  Your second saltwater rod purchase, if you choose to stick with it, will give you the opportunity to hone in on exactly what you need.

Does fly rod color matter to the fish?

Absolutely not.  Think about this: What does anything as thin as a fly rod look like when seen above the surface through refracted water? A black line. Fish will get freaked out by motion long before they see the white label above the cork or the neon yellow blank of your rod.

How much do I need to spend for a good rod?

Not a lot. While there are some spectacular rods for close to $1,000, you don’t need all of that to cast well and catch fish. These days, there are plenty of great rods for around $200.   There are also perfectly serviceable rod, reel, and line combos for under $200. Even the most inexpensive rod from a reputable company will suit your purposes.

Isn’t 7 feet or shorter too short for a good fly cast?

If you have a basic grasp of casting mechanics, you will be able to cast well with a short fly rod. Short rods are still designed to cast fly line. Many small stream anglers learn to cast (and only cast) with short rods, too. In fact, distance records have been set with relatively short rods.

Can I use a nymphing rod for other kinds of fly fishing?

You can… but it won’t be very fun. “Euro rods” are really only meant for flipping over nymph rigs and following the drift. While you can cast a dry fly or a streamer with this gear, it isn’t ideal. The taper and weight of the rods themselves aren’t engineered for traditional casts with normal fly line. Consequently, it will be cumbersome enough to warrant using  a second rod.

Does the warranty matter?

Warranties are great. Controversial, but great. They matter inasmuch as they offer some sort of safety net. The controversy comes in with the asterisks detailing terms, costs, etc. Not to mention the real possibility of price inflation to compensate for the program. All that to say, it is worth double checking how a company’s warranty program works before getting too excited about a “rod for life.”

Should I use a 1- or 2-weight if I really want to feel the fish?

There is always a trade-off when it comes to dropping down to the ultralight rod weights. Tiny dries within 30 feet are all fine and good with that 1-weight. But if there is a deep hole requiring a weighted (or even unweighted) streamer? You’ll probably be able to do it, but it won’t be as effortless as it would be with a 4-weight. And when that little brookie does take your fly, you’d be hard pressed to tell the difference in the fight between the 1 and the lithe 4. Those light rods are a lot of fun to fight small fish on, but it is always a tradeoff with what and how they can present flies.

Are some rods better for dry flies?

While the entire panorama of dry fly fishing presents a scene that largely focuses on skill, there is something to be said for using the best tools for the job. A good fly rod will help you lay out the requisite line in a delicate manner. So, a light rod that you have to cast hard is less ideal than a heavier rod that makes a finesse cast easier. The same weight/flex will allow for easier mends, too. Since narrower tippet is usually called for, a sensitive tip that can provide some shock absorption is a good idea. While there is not one perfect dry fly rod, these facets combined  for where you’re fishing will lead you to the best tool.

I broke the tip off my fly rod… what should I do?

If it is the very tip (less than 2″ or so), you have a few options. The first is to buy a replacement tip-top and install it via the instructions. It will impact the way your rod casts, but only slightly. You can also send it in for repairs if it is under warranty or if you’d rather have the pros deal with it. If the break is past the next guide or right up against it, that is probably a situation where a more skilled repair is the right choice. You can always fish with a broken rod, but it is going to be less than ideal.

Why would anyone spend $800 on a fly rod?

You could rephrase this question with any number, higher or lower, than $800.  And the answer? Mostly because they can. Right behind that? There are build and component advantages in more expensive fly rods. Even though two rods might have $500 between them and look exactly the same, there is a good chance the graphite, the epoxy, the guides, etc. are different. Maybe not, but probably. Thankfully, many good rods can be found for under $1,000/$800/$600/etc.

What will happen if I use my freshwater fly rod in the saltwater?

Hopefully, you’ll catch fish! Yes: some rods have beefier components that may be designed to withstand the harsh effects of salt water. But even those rods should be rinsed and dried after use in the ocean. If you are giving stripers or reds a shot, and only have a bass or musky rod, don’t let the aesthetics stop you (or force you into spending money). And a 6-weight, which not all saltwater rod series include in their lineup, might be the ticket in some applications. Just give it a good fresh water rinse and dry when you’re done.

What are the different kinds of grips?

The shape of the cork assists in casting. In different scenarios, the application of power with your thumb or  forefinger is essential for accuracy or turning over flies. Generally speaking, cigar-style grips allow for a great variety of holds and finesse. A half wells grip (flared at the reel seat) gives the heel of your hand something to fulcrum against for longer casts. A full wells grip (flared at both sides) is standard for heavier rods when you need all the oomph you can get from your thumb and hand. There are other configurations, but these are the most common.

Is a two-piece better than a three- or four-piece rod?

30 years ago the answer would have been different. Today,  with all premium rods being built as four-piece models, it is no longer the case. Engineering, materials, and construction allow for a smooth and light rod even with multiple segments. That said, statistics show there is a slight empirical advantage to two- or one-piece rods. If vehicle space (and budget) allows, they are worth picking up.

Can I fish with my grandpa’s antique fly rod?

Yes; of course.  Why?   There are a number of reasons. First, fly rods of all makes, models, and materials work. Second, it can be a good experience to use the equipment used by  previous generations. Third, if you had a relationship with your grandpa, it may serve as a nostalgic connection every time you go fishing. That old rod might not be your go-to, but it is worth keeping in your rotation – if not on your wall.

Is there such thing as a “do-everything” rod?

The budget-conscious angler or the angler striving for efficiency may ask this question. In one sense, the answer is “no.” The perfect streamer rod won’t be the perfect nymphing rod. The perfect surf rod won’t be the perfect boat rod. On the other hand, a medium-fast, 9-foot 6-weight will cover nearly all your trout fishing needs. A sturdy 9-weight will  cover a lot of inshore ground. Understanding that there will be some limitations with anything you take on the water, there are solutions that will cover the vast majority of fly fishing situations.

What are the basics of caring for a fly rod?

The biggest thing is this: keep it in a case unless you’re using it. This is the best way to guarantee it won’t get snapped or crushed inadvertently. Besides that, keep it clean by wiping it down. Don’t put it away damp. Make sure there isn’t moisture or debris in the female ends of the ferrules. Do those things, and a rod should last you a long, long time.


Have a fly rod question? Let me know in the box below!